Ruta de las Flores
BY ERIKA WEXLER
The Ruta de las Flores (Flower Route) is undoubtedly one of the most enchanting regions in El Salvador rich in waterfalls, volcanoes, hot springs, art and culture. Nestled in the western highlands, this picturesque landscape is one of the country’s top destinations, and has now become one of our absolute favorite locales to visit. The road (ruta) itself meanders through lush, green hills and expansive coffee plantations, linking together the vibrant towns scattered throughout the countryside. The towns included on the 35 km (22 mile) route are Juayua, Apaneca, Nahuizalco, Salcoatitán and Concepción de Ataco. They are all quaint and charming, many with cobblestone streets, grand churches, fantastic murals and plenty of street art. The locals in this region are incredibly welcoming and friendly, and we got great insight into authentic Salvadoran culture during our time here- all things raw and real.
I’ve heard that in the Spring, the route bursts into color as flowers of every hue bloom along the way, giving the Ruta de las Flores its iconic name. However, Will and I found ourselves with a kidless weekend during the rainy season in the middle of August, and decided to explore this gorgeous region of El Salvador. We had no idea that we would fall completely in love not only with the landscape, but also with the many magical opportunities for adventure and relaxation that the area provides.
As I researched this region and was figuring out what we wanted to do, I discovered the Termales Santa Teresa located in Ahuachapán, just to the north of the Ruta. This hotel/spa provided the perfect half-day adventure after our 2 hour drive from Surf City. We arrived mid day and were able to have a leisure afternoon relaxing amongst the 30 different thermal pools ranging in size, temperature, and vibe. These healing waters are said to provide many benefits including: stimulation to the body’s defenses, purification of the blood by removing toxins, metabolism activation, natural pain relief, and relaxation for muscles. We did pay the small extra fee for access to the spa which included unlimited visits into the handcrafted eucalyptus steam rooms, and an opportunity to give ourselves a kaolinite bath. This clay mineral is found locally and provides vitality and rejuvenation for the skin. It was super playful to gather alongside locals and enjoy this unique experience. We finished the afternoon with a delicious meal of traditional Salvadoran food at one of the restaurants onsite with breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
We decided to take the short 40 minute drive to the town of Juayua before the sun set to check out our boutique hotel where we stayed for the weekend. Hotel Juayua is a sweet little gem tucked back in the neighborhood hills, walking distance from town. Our room had a balcony with great views of the surrounding mountains and volcanoes, and also included breakfast each morning. The hotel itself had a few sweet spots to chill and read or play cards, and lots of interesting art to ponder throughout.
After a great night's sleep and an easy breakfast, we decided to venture out to the infamous seven waterfalls (Siete Cascadas) hike that I had heard so much about. Since Will and I both speak Spanish, we didn’t feel the need to book a tour guide from our hotel. Google maps was able to get us down the long dirt road that led to the entrance for the hike. We weren’t clear we had arrived at the right place as it’s really just a park-on-the-side-of-the-street at the end of the road kind of thing. But, here we found the welcoming local family that has lived on this land for many years and acts as both host and tour guide for the falls. We spent the day with our new friend, Carlos who grew up playing in this territory as his own private backyard. It was a magical day spent wading through rivers, clamoring over rocks, and at one point climbing up a 40 meter waterfall. We were in and out of the water and sun the whole time, enjoying the moderate temperatures and gorgeous jungle backdrop. Carlos shared stories with us about his experience coming of age in the jungle, and how his brief stint in the city was cut short because he missed the peace and solitude of these stunning lands he had come to know and love best. It was a lovely day integrating with nature and getting to know more about the local way of life.
We made it back to Juayua in time to partake in the famous Feria Gastronomica (food festival) that happens each weekend around the lively central plaza and church. This was yet another highlight of our weekend adventure as the town came alive with marquees and food stalls offering a wide array of traditional Salvadoran dishes. Most of the vendors display sample plates in front of their stalls, giving you a preview of what they’re serving. We enjoyed two massive plates of food and a few cold beers while enjoying the energetic sounds and sights all around! There was a palpable feeling of community throughout the town, and yet as outsiders, we were welcomed into the festivities and folded right in for all the fun.
On our final day, we took the remaining part of the Ruta towards the coast. Passing through Nahuizalco, we discovered gorgeous handcrafted furniture and vibrant artisan items for sale by local families. This region is known for its work with wicker and tule, reflecting a strong indigenous heritage and tradition. We will definitely be returning to continue adorning our homespace with mirrors, hanging and floor lamps, woven baskets, and more!
The Ruta de Flores is stunning. It’s inspiring, tranquil, yet full of buzzing energy. Go to relax, to slow down and to take in the fresh highland air. Get lost (maybe literally) through adventuring and discovering its unparalleled beauty and magic. Experience the full spectrum of Salvadorian culture within a region full of our favorite things- waterfalls, hot springs, mountains and temperate fresh air. We will for sure be returning again someday soon. We might even catch the flowers at their peak!